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November 29, 2017

Inside the Fragrance: Vetiver

Vetiver is among the most popular notes in the fragrance world. Yet, even among many casual frangrance enthusiasts, it's a scent that can be hard to identify. 

Vetiver (pronounced VEHT-ih-ver) is known for its distinct dry, woody, and earthy aroma. Traditionally, vetiver was also used for many centuries in Indian folk medicine. Now, it is found in nearly 90% of fine fragrances. The scent is so popular in the industry, dozens of colognes are simply named "Vetiver." 

One of the paradoxes of vetiver is that while its fragrance is often described as "woody," the plant is not a wood at all. The essential oil is distilled from the root of vetiver, a tall grass that grows in floodplains and marshes. Vetiver has a complex chemical composition, which means that there are no shortcuts or synthetics for fragrance makers. However, there is a wide range of fragrance profiles between the different vetivers based on their location. We're partial to Javanese and Haitian Vetiver. While they have a great deal in common with one another, the differences in the soil and climates in which they're grown, the way in which the plants are grown and harvested as well as the methods for distillation all affect the olfactive qualities of vetiver.

Haitian Vetiver is relatively bright and airy. It grows in limestone-rich soil with a relatively dry climate. This results in the Vetiver having a bright citrusy quality. Meanwhile, Vetiver from the island of Java grows in mineral-rich volcanic soil and in a very humid environment. This causes Javanese Vetiver to produce more oil with dense, dark, smoky notes. After distillation, Javanese Vetiver tend to smell more resinous and intense than the fresher, more aromatic Haitian Vetiver. Of couse, both varieties offer their own charm, and we use them in different ways. 

Among a number of other components, Devil's Garden features spicy notes of Incense, and the rich, leathery scent of Styrax. The addition of Haitian Vetiver offers rich woody basenotes without making the total composition, which is already quite spicy, overly "messy." 

Meanwhile, our fragrance Lost Man has lots of bright notes of Citrus, and Pine needles. Adding the smoky and resinous elements of Javanese Vetiver to the mix adds a depth and complexity to the scent. 

HWY 190 also makes use of the dark notes of Javanese Vetiver for a mysterious lingering effect that calls to mind the stark nature of the desert. 

Interested in exploring the role of Vetiver in Fulton & Roark scents? Consider building a Custom Discovery Set for yourself. 


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